“For the Benefit of the World”, the proud motto of the Panama Canal, bears some truth, especially for international maritime trade and recreational cruising.
Completed in 1914, Panama Canal created a far shorter, significantly more efficient water route from the Pacific Ocean to the Caribbean Sea in the Atlantic Ocean.
Transit Route
Our preparation for transiting the Canal started months in advance: hiring an agent, preparing and submitting all required papers and documents, including measurements and photos of Fortitude X, transferring fees, organizing line handlers -professionals and friends -, securing marina slips in Panama City and Shelter Bay Marina. Organizing our departure from the Pacific was a welcomed distraction from the ongoing repairs on Fortitude X after our lightning strike.
We marked numerous milestones on our almost four-year journey on board including circumnavigating Vancouver Island, turning south on Cape Flattery, and sailing under the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco. Leaving the Pacific Ocean via the Panama Canal is adding another highlight to our cruising curriculum.
We were very fortunate to have our Vancouver friends Lisa and Ralph on board. They planned their vacation around our transit date on November 11, 2024, and we could not have asked for better company. Both are mariners, extremely competent, and most importantly a lot of fun to have around. The crew was completed by our new comrade, Konstantin, a joyful Austrian fellow who is living in Panama City and whom we met through our common friend, Eberhard.
We decided to hire one professional line-handler; having at least one person on board who had done this before seemed a sensible conclusion. Guthie completed the team and it was a busy boat that left the dock in Marina Flamenco in the wee hours of this windy November morning.
Ready to rock: hatches are covered and extra lines have been added
In position in Miraflores Lock
Konstantin’s first time on a sail boat
The alarm was set for 3 AM; I woke up 30 minutes earlier, preparing fresh pots of coffee, not just a necessity but an absolute priority to start the day. Next, I radioed the Canal Authority to inquire about details for our meeting point. The friendly folks advised us to wait at Canal buoy 4 to take on our official Canal Advisor (CA). The Advisor stays on board throughout the entire transit to help with the process and communicate with the Lockmaster and pilots on big ships as necessary.
It’s important to note, that the Advisor is not working as the pilot, he does not take over the Captain’s responsibilities but has a huge amount of local knowledge, particularly regarding the unique water behaviour once in the lock chambers.
After an hour wait in turbulent seas at the assigned buoy, the pilot boat approached us. Still dark, the skipper tried to get as close as possible to Fortitude X to allow the advisor to jump ships -literally- while I tried to keep our vessel as steady as possible. After two unsuccessful attempts, Canal Authority instructed us to keep moving to buoy 10, hoping for calmer seas to allow safe boarding.
Jamie, our knowledgeable Canal Advisor
Taking the job seriously
Miraflores Locks here we come. We were busy for about two hours once we started the lock procedure. We were instructed to follow the colossal Japanese freighter “Rigel Leader”, and to tie up to the port side of a tour boat named “Serenity”, which was secured close to the wall with their starboard side.
Turning around, watching the gates closing behind me, and the chamber filling up with more than 100 Million liters of fresh water is an extraordinary experience and makes you appreciate the engineering marvel behind this mega project.
Ocean Giants
After transiting the two Miraflores and the Pedro Miguel Lock, it was time for a hot and hardy breakfast, prepared and served by our wonderful friend, Lisa. Crossing Gatun Lake on this 82 km crossing gave us time to chat and mingle. We maintained our speed of 6 knots in the warm lake waters without overheating the engine, which would have caused us to spend a night in the lake. Torsten wasn’t opposed to the idea of extending our transit by a night; let’s say I was just grateful that we kept moving.
Passing the Ocean giants on the lake made us realize that we were most likely the smallest vessel going through the canal that day, but certainly, the one having the most fun. Small but mighty!
Arriving at Gatun Locks we had the opportunity to join a freighter just waiting for a companion going down the locks under the condition to be tied against the wall. We decided against it, even though it cost us a couple of hours of waiting; the risk of damaging the boat by being close to the wall was not worth the rush.
Women Power
Fortitude X Panama Canal (male) crew
It was just before 16:00 when we arrived in the Caribbean Sea. Jamie left us, using the reversed boarding procedure, to return back home to Panama City. The sun was just setting on the horizon when we finally arrived at Shelter Bay Marina where we were greeted by the awesome dock team after an adrenaline-filled day off cruising.
Friends
1 Comment
Marcia Williams
What an awesome adventure you are on. Be well, be safe, and continue to enjoy every minute.