Banderas Bay: the most southern location during our first cruising season in Mexico – now the starting point for our exploration of remaining Pacific Mexico.
We were treated to a visit from our friends Lara and Julia from Germany; they picked the only week with no sun on the horizon; the days were overcast; but our mood was not. Our time together was filled with activities, explorations, and the occasional cocktail hour. Our goodbyes to the girls were followed by another farewell, parting from fellow cruising buddies. While we were destined to head south/southeast, our friends from Arvonna, Viva, and Andante prepared their boats for the Pacific Ocean puddle jump. Adios amigos – until we meet again!
Welcome on Board, Julia & Lara
Happy smiles!
Final farewell in La Cruz!
Barra de Navidad
Bahia Tenacatita welcomed us with white sandy beaches and excellent water temperatures for swimming. Several boats spend all summer in this area, enjoying the anchorage and the attached estuary, Estero Verde. The trip through the mangroves leads to the small village of Tenacatita; an unforgettable dinghy ride as our outboard gave up on us – again. Raffi on Windriver came to the rescue, towing us through the lush landscape before we rowed back the last few miles to be reunited with Fortitude X.
Towing dinghy!
Tenacatita parking lot
A short 15 Nautical Miles (NM) further south but a world apart, we docked the boat at Marina Puerto de la Navidad, part of the attached Resort and Country Club. Here we enjoyed cruising life as you would picture it in your wildest dreams: private pools, water taxis, first-class restaurants, pool bars, and a French baker pulling up to your yacht in the morning to sell you fresh pastries and artisan bread. Heaven! We stayed for a week, waiting for the arrival of our new electric dinghy engine; after the recent adventure in Tenacatita, the skipper decided it would be a good idea to have a backup. Smart move!
Paradise
Pool hour(s)
Grand Isla Navidad Marina
Grand Isla Navidad Marina
We arrived in Bahia Zihuatanejo in the middle of the night, carefully approaching this beautiful, busy anchorage surrounded by the village lights and guided by the illumination of Salish Dragon’s cockpit lights. Zihua is magical! Made famous by “The Shawshank Redemption” Tim Robbins’ character Andy says that he would like to get away from it all and go to his dream destination: Zihuatanejo. The Mexicans say that the Pacific Ocean has no memory, and that is where he would like to go.
Well, we didn’t need to erase memories; we stopped to reconnect with our friends Tracey & Steve on Salish Dragon and to participate in Guitar Fest, a week-long non-profit music event supporting the community. We enjoyed world-class music in intimate venues at night and took the dinghy ashore for town excursions during the day.
Zihuatanejo
Reunited with the amazing crew of Salish Dragon
“Going loco down in Acapulco if you stay too long …”. When I think of Acapulco, I automatically start singing this famous tune by The Four Tops. We were debating whether to visit the city in the aftermath of the massive destruction caused by Hurricane Otis in October 2023. The damage is striking and the recovery is still far from complete. We rented a mooring ball from Vincente, who lost his entire family in the tropical cyclone.
We ventured into town, watching locals bouncing back from the adversity, finding strengths, and building resilience.
Back at the boat, a million thoughts raced through my head while I was listening to the music and laughter echoing from the beach, courage being the most memorable one, before I felt asleep.
Dinner after a long day in Oaxaca
Always happy!
We left Acapulco at first light for our 235 NM stretch to Bahias de Huatulco, our last stop, where we were waiting for a weather window to cross the infamous Gulf of Tehuantepec, known for its treacherous winds blowing across the narrow isthmus. We made good use of our time, leaving Fortitude X in Marina Chahue while traveling to Oaxaca, one of Mexico’s gastronomic capitals. Instead of renting a car, we decided to ride on a collectivo, a shared minivan, for about 7 hours, including a brief bathroom break.
We walked the town for days, indulging in sumptuous culinary delights and local coffee. We visited the petrified pools of Hierve el Agua, stopped at one of the many Mezcal Bars for a tasting – and shopping, explored the archeological site of Monte Alban, and visited the artisan village of Teotitlan del Valle, famous for its woven wool rugs using all natural dyes.
Monte Alban
Monte Alban
Street Art
Street Art
Weavery
Weavery in Teotitlan del Valle
Returning to Marina Chahue, we were more than ready to take on the next chapter of our Mexican cruising quest: Tehuantepec – here we come!
Hierve el Agua
4 Comments
Karen
Greetings from San Francisco! Reading about your adventures, foods & destinations make me long to return to Mexico! As usual you’re having a tiempo fabuloso. Perhaps our paths will cross again. In the meantime, we’ll keep track here!!!
Derick Sindell
Well done team Fortitude X ! Still hoping the timing works out to see you Panama.
Marcia Williams
I am so glad you enjoyed Zihua as much as I did. It is one of my favorites in Mexico. Looking forward to reading your next travel journal as you continue southward. Happy Sailings.
Kathy Reeves
Lovely. It sounds like you are having a great time. I’m more relaxed from simply reading it.